IN THE ATMOSPHERE OF THE PARIS BATHS

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You created the olfactory signature of our Hotel with the perfume Atmosphère as well as two Eaux de Parfum "1885 Bains Sulfureux" and "2013 Résidence d'Artistes". What is the link between these three creations?

The accord of woods - patchouli, cedar, sandalwood - and incense present in all three creations.

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How did Atmosphère come about?

In the subdued atmosphere, I immediately imagined notes of wood and leather, a fresh spicy note to play off the contrast, and, echoing the wisps of smoke, notes of incense.

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What inspired you to create "1885 Bains Sulfureux"?

I wanted to create a powdery, soft, balmy, comforting, musky fragrance with aromatic accents, rosemary like fumigations.

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What were your inspirations for creating "2013 Artists' Residence"?

Naturally, I was inspired by the work of artists. I wanted to start with rougher, woody woods like cedar and patchouli. I also had in mind the dampness of cold stones and the dryness of cinnamon bark. I faceted these materials and softened them with musks.

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How did you come to meet the founder of our brand, Jean-Pierre Marois?

I met Jean-Pierre Marois to create the olfactory identity for Les Bains. I knew "Les Bains" by reputation, its history linked to all those who had frequented it. The building was being renovated at the time, and Jean-Pierre opened the doors to us. I thought it was pretty crazy to be there, to still feel that slightly sultry atmosphere, and also to be privileged to discover the renovated building before anyone else.

It's an inspiring place, beautiful beyond its history.

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What's your fondest olfactory memory?

I have many, but there's one that recurs every summer in our Normandy garden. When the sun goes down, with the humidity falling, the smell of the earth revealing all the perfumes stored up during the day, the opulent flowers, the humus, the cut grass; it's an emotion that's renewed every time. Other memories are linked to cooking, spices and aromatic herbs. It was in the kitchen and garden that my passion for fragrance was born.

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Where did you learn this trade?

Two senior perfumers helped me in my early days.

Raymond Chaillan, who instilled in me a taste for beautiful materials.

Martin Gras, whose enthusiasm gave me the self-confidence to see my projects through to the end.

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Why did you become a perfumer? What was the triggering moment?

Perfume has unsuspected magical powers, arousing indescribable, impalpable emotions, and I think I wanted to make the

hearts".

The turning point came when I met a perfumer. I didn't know it was possible to make a living from it. It was from this meeting that my vocation was born.

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What's your day like at the office?

It may sound repetitive, but I'm actually working on several projects at once.  

In the morning, I evaluate the previous day's tests, background notes and adjust the balance.

I review current creations with the sales team and with the brands that have entrusted us with projects.

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How do you discover new raw materials? Do you have a favorite country or region that you visit often for inspiration?

I'm lucky enough to have high-quality raw materials in my collection. I'm curious by nature, and no matter where I am or what country I'm in, my "nose is on the alert".

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What are your favorite materials for creating perfume? Why or why not?

When I started out, I had preconceived ideas about certain materials, but little by little I came to realize that by using them, by taming them, I was discovering interesting facets, and that by overcoming the difficulty, I often succeeded in creating beautiful combinations.

Naturally, I have fetish materials: incense, woody notes like patchouli, which for me has multiple facets, and leather notes.

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How can we recognize your olfactory signature?

It's difficult to answer this question, as I'm often told that my creations are best recognized through my work on woody notes, my way of highlighting them and bringing out their facets.

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What do you think the difference is between commercial and niche perfumery?

Niche perfumery allows us to explore more singular accords, to shape the material.

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What's your advice on choosing the right perfume?

Take your time, follow it on the skin but also spray it around a room. Close the door and open it again to discover it in its entirety. Don't try to recognize the ingredients, just let yourself go and be seduced or not.

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Where should perfume be applied? Can perfume be applied to the hair?

On all vein points, bleeding points (inside wrists, elbows, knees), on the hems of clothing, and a light touch on hair (it dries hair out).

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Does a perfume evolve in the same way on all people?

Fragrances do not evolve in the same way from one person to the next, and for those with very dry skin, the result is not the same. On two different people, the perception of certain raw materials is different.

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Why is a perfume built in three stages (head, heart, base)?

Of course, some fragrances have dominant heart or base notes, but we expect a fragrance to be discovered right from the start.

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Do you have a favorite fragrance(s)?

Yes, I like chypre notes, they're not monolithic perfumes. It's like an English garden, you discover its facets as you go along. I like colognes and raw woody notes.

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Were you born with a heightened sense of smell, or can it be learned?

I've always been curious about smell, and I think I've developed this sense over time, and of course it's something I work on every day.

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Many thanks to Dominique Ropion and the Robertet teams for this interview!